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Coati Questions  

New Member

Hey everyone! I'll finally be realizing my nearly two decade dream of owning a Coati! Over the course of time I've been researching, but as we exotic keepers know, the search for knowledge never ends, so I come to you with some questions while I impatiently wait for my little girl to be born.

In spring I'll be getting a female Mountain Coati, as research has yielded that while White Nosed are more manageable in smell, their dispositions aren't always the greatest. I can mitigate an odor over bad temperament, so I chose the stinkier but better behaved, as much as a Coati can be, Mountain. Her name will be Kona and she will have a high energy friend already here, should introductions go well, as I have a young husky that never seems to stop.

At any rate, I've read over some zoo studies on Coati keeping, amongst other things from various sources, and they say they're good at positive reinforcement and desensitization training, both to train them boundaries and have a general sense of order, and to get them acclimated to common health inspection and maintenance routines. One of my questions revolves around this topic, if started from a very young age, if one were to fiddle with their paws, their teeth, and just routinely do a overall body inspection, would the coati be less prone to fighting back on dental hygiene, claw trimmings, or inspections when needed? Could you take this same desensitization technique, from a young age, and use it to tone down object aggression that's so common in coatis before they grow up and can do serious damage? In example, I know food prizes are often coveted prized they'll gladly fight over. Could you theoretically do them like you would a puppy, and pet them, touch their face, touch their food, etc as they're eating to desensitize them and teach them that you're not interested in their food and there's no need for them to bite or act out over close proximity to food?

Also along the same vein, I've read that coatis can suddenly go on the attack over such noises as jingling keys or bells. Why is this? Is this truly a case of sound frequency hurting their ears? Are there any studies done specifically into why these noises elicit such a volatile response, or studies done into sound frequencies and procyonids? Or is it just a common peeve for these species of animal? Can they be desensitized to these sounds via consistent exposure from a young age?

Additionally, I have some dietary questions. I have a colony of dubia my baby will have as the insect portion of her diet, then naturally things like eggs, various fruits, some veggies, etc, but I've read people commonly leave out dog food as a 'through the day' kind of meal outside of fresh foods. This works for me since I have my dog and food out during the day. My question is specific dietary needs, and what high-end brand I can get that will fit both of them. I'm a bit of a dog food snob, and truth be told if I currently had the means to do it, I'd go back to butchering my own raw for my dog, but I'm not currently in such a position. That being said, I try to feed only the best kibble. I spent a lot of time pouring over ingredient lists, pros and cons to certain ingredients, etc before deciding what my dog would be eating, but the dilemma is now I'm bringing in this coati and I want them to both be happy. I currently feed Earthborn Grain Free Primitive Naturals. This kibble has a protein content of 42%, fat 22%, and 28% carbs. The one I was considering switching to is either Acana Duck & Pear or Acana Lamb & Apple, which has 35% protein, 19% fat, and 38% carbs. Referencing those same zoo data sheets, institutions ranged from ~30% - 34% protein content and 13 - 20% fat content(these papers excluded carbs). So this makes me question, would Acana be more appropriate for the two of them? Or would higher fat, higher protein, and lower carbs be better and I should keep what I have?

Also, many coati parents know about aspiration when their coati is a little baby. What can I do to prevent this? I've got syringes and bottles with premie nipples, as someone said their breeder recommended the red premie nipples due to the small hole. I was told the key to this is to ensure the nipple hole doesn't get too big that they would flood their mouths with milk and aspirate it in their excitement to nurse. That and controlling the flow, slowing them down as they nurse, and making sure you aren't feeding them on their back. I've got the premie nipples with the Dr. Brown's Accufeed Bottle System, will these work for controlling the flow?

Anywho, thanks so much for your time and consideration! Smile

Topic starter Posted : January 4, 2021 6:58 pm